Topical Antioxidants

Currently, tremendous interest and research is being focused on antioxidants and their value in helping to reverse and prevent free radical damage. By definition, free radicals are highly unstable oxygen molecules with unpaired electrons that must seek other molecules with stable electrons to achieve their own stabilisation.

Attaching to the stable electron of other molecules accomplishes stability, but as a result the “good” molecule is then transformed by the free radical into another free radical whose function and shape is now altered.

Free radicals work quickly. In mere seconds, one radical can trigger a chain reaction that produces thousands of additional free radicals. The damage caused by the free radicals can range from cell damage or ultimately, cell death.

Such cellular breakdown manifests itself superficially in lines, wrinkles, dry skin, loss of elasticity, and skin discolouration. On a deeper level, free radical destruction can substantially destroy the collagen and elastin support system, degrade DNA, damage vital enzymes, impair critical immune functions, and cause general tissue deterioration.

Certain substances termed as “antioxidants” can interrupt or even prevent this cellular onslaught. Another term for antioxidants is “free radical scavengers” because of their ability to provide electrons to which the free radical can attach itself. The antioxidant electron can thus be rendered harmless before it can attach itself to a so – called “healthy” radical and begin the destructive chain reaction.

Our favourite antioxidants……

Vitamin C

Antioxidants neutralise free radicals, help prevent damage to skin’s support structure and help prevent visible signs of ageing by stimulating collagen. In order for an antioxidant to do all these things it needs to already be in a form the body recognises in this case, L-Ascorbic acid

Topical antioxidants enter the skin and protect against both UVB and UVA. Kinetic studies show that, once in the skin, topical antioxidants remain for days and cannot be washed, rubbed or perspired off. In order to achieve these benefits, studies at Duke University show that a formulation of vitamin-C must possess the following characteristics:

• It must contain L-ascorbic acid
• It must be at acid pH
• It must contain a high concentration of L-ascorbic acid
• The L-ascorbic acid must be stable

Concentration is a key consideration in evaluating a topical Vitamin C product. What concentration is best to augment natural body stores of L-Ascorbic acid? Research shows that concentrations ranging from ten to thirty percent get significant amounts of Vitamin C into the skin, a 10% concentration allowing a maximum amount of L-Ascorbic acid into the skin. The formulation must be at a ph 3.5 or lower to penetrate the skin. Topical vitamin-C has been shown to stimulate the growth of collagen in human fibroblasts

The continued synthesis of collagen is essential to maintain healthy skin – studies show that collagen decreases with age and that photo-ageing accelerates this process

One of the best ranges of L-Ascorbic Acid Vitamin C products is SkinCeuticals. The best product in that range for those suffering with pigmentation is Phloretin CF.

Otherwise why not try…… SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic, Medik8 CE Tetra, Obagi Pro C, Flavo C Serum

Vitamin A

Vitamin A is an anti-oxidant that has been shown to reduce the risk of cancer by neutralising free radicals. It increases cell production in the top layer of skin, so new skin cells begin to grow underneath and push their way towards the surface of the skin.

This results in the cells looking smoother and the skin looking younger. It also has a positive effect on collagen production, because skin uses retinoic acid when it produces collagen.

As a result, skin looks plumper. Also, it helps to reduce pigmentation that comes with sun damage.
The greatest cause of damage is the sun, which can greatly accelerate the effects of ageing. Chemicals, such as second-hand smoke and pollution, also work to harm sensitive skin tissues.

Vitamin A stimulates cell growth and production and helps misshapen skin cells to grow back to their proper form to help repair this damage. Vitamin A is an excellent product to use because it works simply by repairing and improving the overall health of your skin.

Side effects

Because the turnover of skin cells is higher, the cells at the surface are younger and more vulnerable to sun damage, so you should always wear a daily sunscreen even if it’s not sunny.

Flaking, redness and irritation are all common side effects of topical Vitamin A, and the degree of these side effects depends on the strength of product used.

Vitamin A must not be used during pregnancy.

Vitamin A comes in varying strengths. At The Birmingham Pigmentation Specialist Clinic, we can supply prescription strength  Vitamin A, which is known as Tretinoin. You will have to have a verbal consultation with our nurse prescriber to have this product dispensed to you.

Some of our products containing prescription strength Vitamin A are Pigmanorm and Obagi Tretinoin.

We also supply non prescription products, usually called Retinol. Some of our favourites are:

Medik8 Retinol 3TR, Jan Marini Factor A+, SkinMedica Retinol Complex, SkinCeuticals Retinol, GloTherapeutics Tretinol